Solid wood furniture differs from industrially produced chipboard furniture in one decisive respect: it is made from a natural material that responds continuously to its surroundings. This brings outstanding advantages, along with a few characteristics that are worth knowing in advance. We set them out here openly and in detail, because in our view a satisfied customer is one who knows what they are buying.

Everything described below is a natural property of solid wood and not a product defect. That is precisely why we state it before purchase rather than only in reply to a complaint.

1. Every piece is different

Every tree grows differently. Colour, the width and course of the growth rings, knots, the proportion of heartwood and sapwood and the structure all vary. The photograph on the website therefore shows an example of the piece. Your table or bed may have a slightly different tone or figure.

During production we sort the elements so that neighbouring parts match in colour and structure; complete uniformity cannot be achieved with natural wood. This is not a defect but one of the fundamental characteristics of solid wood.

2. Knots

Knots are the remains of branches that the tree grew around. They are a normal and unavoidable part of the wood, not a shortcoming. A sound, tightly grown knot does not weaken the wood in any way that matters in furniture.

Some customers want the cleanest and most even wood possible, others prefer pronounced knots and a more rustic look. For some pieces we therefore use a calmer grade, while in others knots and variations in structure are deliberately visible. Among our species lime generally shows the fewest prominent knots, oak and larch the most.

Loose or split knots that would affect strength or usability are removed or made good. Fine cracks in and around knots are usual in solid wood.

3. How wood moves

You will often hear that wood works. Behind this lies a well documented physical process: wood is hygroscopic, meaning it exchanges moisture with the air until equilibrium is reached. When relative humidity falls, wood releases moisture and shrinks. When it rises, wood absorbs moisture and swells.

This change is strongly directional. Along the grain it is negligible; across the grain it is measurable. As a guide: in oak the width changes by roughly 0.3 to 0.4 % for every one percent change in moisture content in the tangential direction.

In our workshop we allow for this in several ways: we kiln dry the timber to 8 to 10 % moisture content, matching the conditions of a heated living space; table tops are fixed with elongated holes or metal connectors that permit movement, never rigidly; end battens are made so that the panel can move beneath them; and in beds the side rails and cross members are joined with cam fittings that can be retightened after a few years.

4. Fine cracks

Small changes and fine cracks can occur in solid wood, particularly with large or rapid changes of humidity and temperature in the room. They most often appear at the end grain, where wood releases moisture far faster than through the face.

A crack that appears and then partly closes again as humidity rises is a normal response of the material. Once the humidity in the room stabilises, the wood settles. Cracks that would affect the strength of the construction are rare in correctly dimensioned and correctly placed furniture; where they occur we treat them as a defect and put them right.

We therefore recommend that furniture is not placed directly beside a strong heat source and that the room maintains a suitable humidity.

5. Humidity in the room

This is the most important thing you can influence yourself. The recommended relative humidity for solid wood furniture is between 40 and 60 % at 18 to 24 degrees Celsius. This is also the range regarded as comfortable and healthy for people.

• A simple hygrometer costs little and tells you where you stand. We recommend one to anyone bringing solid wood furniture into their home.
• In winter, when heating dries the air, a humidifier or a bowl of water near the heat source helps.
• In summer and in new buildings where humidity is too high, regular ventilation helps, and a dehumidifier if necessary.
• Avoid a position closer than one metre to a radiator or other heat source, and avoid all day direct sunlight.

With underfloor heating solid wood furniture is perfectly usable, but a little more attention is worthwhile: the floor temperature is consistently higher, so the lower parts of a piece dry out more than the upper ones. We recommend steady heating without large temperature swings and monitoring humidity with a hygrometer.

6. Scratches and wear

An oak table can be scratched too. Oak is a hard wood, but it is not indestructible. Any surface used every day will acquire marks over time. The decisive advantage of solid wood is that much of this damage can be repaired later: the surface is sanded back and protected again. This is exactly why well made solid wood furniture can be used for a very long time.

Practical advice: use trivets under hot vessels, wipe up liquids immediately (especially red wine, oil, fruit juice and alcohol), do not cut directly on the surface, and do not drag heavy objects across it.

7. Finishes: oil or lacquer

For tables in households with small children we often recommend lacquer or a good hardwax oil. For beds and bedrooms we recommend oil, as it preserves the natural feel and scent of the wood and can be renewed locally at any time.

8. Delivery, acclimatisation and assembly

• let the piece stand in the room where it will be used for at least 24 to 48 hours before assembly so that it can acclimatise;
• remove the packaging so that the wood can breathe, and do not place the piece hard against an external wall or a heat source;
• in new buildings, where screed and plaster are still damp, wait until the room has dried out; humidity there often exceeds 70 %;
• tighten all screws and cam fittings well during assembly, and check them once more after a few months of use.

Detailed instructions with all dimensions are available for our beds: DOLLY assembly instructions and LOMA assembly instructions. They also state the height at which the mattress rests and how deep the mattress recess is.

9. Care and maintenance

• Every day. Wipe with a slightly damp soft cloth, then dry off. Do not use aggressive cleaners, alcohol, acetone, abrasive pads or steam cleaners.
• Oiled surfaces. In the first year we recommend refreshing the oil after about six months, then generally once a year. More often for heavily used table tops.
• Lacquered surfaces. No regular maintenance is required, cleaning is enough. Damage to the lacquer should be repaired promptly so that moisture cannot get beneath the film.
• Small scratches. On oiled surfaces light sanding with very fine abrasive paper (P320 or finer) along the grain, followed by oil, is usually enough.
• Dents from impact. On oiled, unlacquered wood these can often be partly raised: place a damp cloth over the spot and warm it carefully with an iron so that the fibres swell.

10. What is a defect and what is not

11. A short checklist before buying

1. Measure the room and check the access route, particularly door widths and stairwells.
2. Choose the species according to use and the look you want; the guide to wood species will help.
3. Choose a finish to suit how the piece will be used and how much maintenance you are prepared to do.
4. Order wood and finish samples if colour matters to you.
5. Check the humidity in your room with a hygrometer.
6. Plan a position away from radiators and direct sun.
7. Allow for production time; bespoke pieces are made in our workshop and are not held in stock.

Mizarstvo Bioles, predelava lesa, d.o.o. · Made in our own workshop, out of love for wood.